The High Middle Ages were a period of courtly romance, the Crusades, and the rise of Gothic art. For those who want to assemble a historically accurate outfit from the 11th to 13th century, it's essential to understand the nuances of that time. Fashion in this era was a direct reflection of social status, religion, and economic power.
Clothing in Perspective: Status and Material
In the Middle Ages, clothing was determined by your status. The aristocracy wore clothing to stand out: extravagant and colourful. The working class wore practical clothing for physical labour, though they kept their finest pieces for Sundays and holidays.
- Materials: Wool and linen formed the basic foundation. The elite could additionally afford silk, brocade, and richly embroidered fabrics from Asia and North Africa.
- Innovation: From the 13th century onwards, block-printed patterns made their entrance into Europe, adopted from Islamic Spain. This was a relatively cheap way to decorate fabrics locally without intensive handwork.
- Colour: Costs were determined by the rarity of dyes. Undyed fabrics were for the poorest; deep colours such as indigo blue and emerald green for the wealthy.
Underclothing: The Foundation
Underclothing covered almost the entire body and was crucial to protect expensive outerwear from sweat and dirt. Because linen has a cooling effect, in summer in rural areas sometimes only underclothing was worn.
- Braies: The linen undertrousers that came down to the knee. Loose trouser legs (chausses) were attached to these.
- Under-tunic: A long linen undergarment with long sleeves. For men, this garment was slightly shorter than for women, so it was just visible under the surcoat tunic for a layered effect.
The Nobility: Splendour and Grandeur
For the noble man, the tunic was the most important garment, often made in wool-twill or linen of the highest quality.
The Tunic and the Bliaut
Nobles wore bright colours (dark red, emerald green) and fabrics woven with gold or silver thread. In the 12th century, the bliaut came into fashion: a long, flowing garment with bell-shaped sleeves. The male variant was shorter and more practical than the female.
Surcoat and Mantles
- Surcoat (Cyclas/Dalmatica): A sleeveless overgown made from a square piece of fabric, allowing the tunic underneath to remain visible.
- Mantles: An essential symbol of status. They were often fastened with a brooch on the shoulder so the right arm (the sword arm) remained free.
Legs, Feet and Spurs
Chausses (Leg Wrappings)
The "trousers" consisted of two loose legs. In the 12th century, these became richly decorated and the first mi-parti patterns (two different colours) emerged. From the 13th century onwards, they were often fastened below the knee with garters.
Footwear and Spurs
Noble men wore turnshoes (ankle boots or riding boots). In the 12th century, the first pointed shoes emerged as a symbol of masculinity. Spurs were exclusively reserved for the nobility as a sign of chivalry; during this period only prick spurs were used.
The Working Class: Peasants and Burghers
The Tunic
Working men wore wool or linen tunics to the knee with a round neckline. Colours were often muted (grey, brown, blue), but the emerging middle class (craftsmen) could afford richer colours such as wine red.
Protection Against the Elements
For cold weather, they wore a tunicella (over-tunic with hood). The hood (cucullus) protected against rain. In the 13th century, this hood acquired the well-known long point, the liripipe, which also served as a scarf or storage pouch.
Footwear for Labour
Besides leather turnshoes, working people from the 12th century onwards wore wooden clogs and pattens (wooden undershoes) to protect their leather against mud.
Accessories and Jewellery
Jewellery displayed wealth, but also faith.
- Belts: In the 11th-12th centuries, the nobility wore a cingulum (rich belt of fabric/leather) high around the waist. In the 13th century, the long, simple leather belt (2-4 cm wide) became the standard.
- Brooches: Indispensable for fastening mantles and tunics.
- Pendants: Often religious (crucifixes) and worn under clothing as an amulet. In Norman regions, the influence from Scandinavia was still clearly visible.
Internal Links
- Women's Fashion in the Renaissance (1500-1570)
- Men's Fashion: The Golden Age and Baroque (1570-1700)
- The Rapier: Elegance, Status and the Art of the Thrust
- Frock coat: formal men's jacket from the 18th century
Further Reading & Sources
For those who want to delve deeper into manuscripts or surviving garments:
- Manuscript Miniatures: A database of medieval images up to 1450.
- Fashion in the Middle Ages by Margaret Scott.
- Clothing the Past by Elizabeth Coatsworth & Gale Owen-Crocker for surviving garments from Western Europe.
