The Renaissance: A Time of Change
The 16th century marked a break with the past. Not only through humanism and contact with the New World, but especially through the Reformation.
- Protestant sobriety: Under the influence of Luther and Calvin, extravagant clothing and colour use were sometimes even forbidden.
- Catholic piety: In Catholic regions too, Spanish fashion from 1550 onwards brought a conservative trend with high collars and covered hair.
Structure and Silhouette: The Basic of the Outfit
In the Renaissance, the focus shifted from the flowing medieval lines to a more constructed silhouette.
Underwear & Shaping
- Chemise (Shift): The linen undergarment that absorbed sweat and protected expensive outer clothing.
- Bodices & Corsets: Aristocratic women wore bodices reinforced with baleen, bone or horn. Misconception: These were custom-made and not necessarily uncomfortable; even working women wore them for support.
- Farthingales (Hoop skirts): Constructions made of reed or willow that gave the skirt a specific, wide shape.
The Nobility: Splendour, Pageantry and the Spanish Collar
The elite used fashion to display wealth. As the century progressed, the style changed from open and wide to high-necked and tight.
- Early 16th century: Low, rectangular necklines and wide "duck-bill shoes".
- Mid 16th century: High collars that came up to the chin, often combined with the rise of slashing (slashing) to display expensive under-fabrics.
- Tudor influence: In England, earrings – previously considered 'exotic' – became wildly popular with both men and women.
The Working Class: Practical Elegance
Peasant women and craftswomen combined fashion with the need for physical labour.
- The Rise of the Skirt: Instead of full dresses, working women often wore a loose skirt with a sleeveless bodice in summer.
- The Apron: Essential for hygiene. Often dyed blue (the cheapest dye for linen) or undyed natural.
- Clogs: Developed from wooden sandals, they served as the "safety shoe" of the 16th century during farm work.
Accessories: Symbolism on the Belt
- Kidney purse & Pouch: The kidney purse from the 15th century slowly fell out of fashion and was replaced by simpler leather pouches.
- Dress hooks: Practical hooks with which working women could gather their skirt to move more easily or keep the hem clean.
- Pearl necklaces: The status symbol for the wealthy bourgeoisie and nobility. Even as necklines rose, these necklaces remained popular, but were worn over the clothing.
Hair & Headdress
- Early 1500: The high forehead remained a sign of intelligence; hairlines were often still plucked back.
- Trinzale: A popular Southern European hairnet that held the hair in a long, knotted tail.
- The Coif: For married and working women, covering the head was the norm, a custom that was only reinforced by the Reformation.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Were 16th century corsets dangerous?
No, this is a historical misconception. While they shaped the body, they were designed for support (comparable to a modern sports bra) and provided necessary support during heavy labour.
Why did sleeves often have slits?
This technique is called slashing. This allowed the wearer to show that they could afford multiple layers of expensive fabric, with the silk or fine linen from the underlayer pulled through the holes.
