Two Worlds: Burgundy versus Italy
In the 15th century, regional styles evolved into powerful fashion movements that influenced the rest of Europe.
- Burgundian Style: Dominant in the Low Countries, France, England, and Germany. Characterized by high headgear (hennins), lavish use of fur trim and heavy fabrics like brocade.
- Italian Style: Popular in Italy and the Iberian Peninsula. This style was lighter, made more use of slashing (slashing) in the sleeves, and more often showed the white linen undergarment.
Nobility and Upper Middle Class: Symbols of Status
For the elite, clothing was a political instrument. After the Black Death, sumptuary laws were enforced more strictly to maintain the distinction between nobility and the rising wealthy bourgeoisie.
The Dress: From Cotehardie to Cloak Dress
- Cotehardie (Cotte): Still worn in the early 15th century, often with short sleeves so the white chemise was visible. Fashionably, the emphasis was on a rounded belly.
- The Houppelande: A stately, flowing outer garment that remained popular until mid-15th century. The edges were often trimmed with precious fur (such as ermine or squirrel).
- The Cloak Dress: A later innovation where the dress was wrapped around the body like a luxurious bathrobe and fastened with a wide belt high under the bust.
Headgear: The Hennin and the Trinzale
- Hennin: The iconic cone-shaped "princess hat". Women often plucked their hairline away to create a high forehead—a sign of intelligence.
- Trinzale: In Italian fashion, the hair was often worn in a net at the back of the head, ending in a long, braided tail.
The Working Class: Practical and Fashionable
Although the materials were simpler (wool and linen), working women followed fashion in their own way.
- Color Use: Blue was a popular color for linen because it was relatively cheap to dye. Gray, brown, and reddish-brown were also common.
- The Apron: Essential in the 15th century. It wasn't only bleached white for court servants, but also often dyed blue for peasant women.
- Mi-parti: Servants wore clothing in the two colors of their master as a sign of rank and loyalty.
Accessories: From Kidney Purse to Satire
The 15th century saw an enormous boom in personal accessories.
- The Kidney Purse: A characteristic belt pouch worn by all classes. The name comes from the two round lobes on the underside.
- Pilgrim Badges: Souvenirs from holy journeys, worn on the hat or chest.
- Satirical Badges: Popular during carnival; badges that mocked society, such as a pig playing bagpipes or erotically-tinged symbols.
- Wide Belts: In Burgundian fashion, noble women wore wide cloth or leather belts directly under the bust to shape the silhouette.
Jewelry: The Low Neckline
Because necklines in the 15th century became considerably lower, there was room for extravagant neck chains.
- Pearls: The ultimate status symbol. In Italy, wealthy merchants wore these despite sumptuary laws, often as a form of 'silent rebellion' or simply by paying the fines as a tax.
- Religious Pendants: Pectoral crosses and images of saints remained the most common pendants.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why did women pluck their foreheads bald?
In the 15th century, a high, broad forehead was associated with wisdom and noble birth. The hair was often plucked far beyond the natural hairline to enhance this effect under the hennin.
What's the difference between a 'turnshoe' and a 'patten'?
A turnshoe is the actual leather shoe. A patten is a wooden overshoe with leather straps that you wear over your normal shoes to protect them from the muddy streets.
