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The surcotte, originally worn as an outer garment by men, became more popular amongst women starting in the thirteenth century. The garment has been designed to be worn over another piece of clothing. Wide, sleeveless surcottes were worn by the working class, whilst narrow surcottes were worn by the aristocracy. Narrow surcottes like this one emerged in the 14th century and were sometimes a controversial garment. This type of surcotte arose during a period of sexual liberalisation.
The armholes of the surcotte grew increasingly larger, a popular fashion statement. Eventually, the openings reached the hips, as with this surcotte, permitting the underdress beneath to be seen. Because of this, the fashion trend faced criticism from some moralists. The medieval church deemed this fashion immodest, calling the armholes 'the gates of hell.' Nevertheless, the narrow surcotte continued to be worn well into the 15th century and was even a garment of state from 1525 onward.
The surcotte is crafted from sturdy cotton canvas, which renders the garment well-suited to spring and autumn. The hems feature a finely woven cotton rib. The armholes reach to the hips. The surcotte is best combined with a belt and shift dress. A distinctive garment for re-enactment and LARP of the thirteenth to fifteenth centuries.
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