A Century of Contrasts: Piety vs. Baroque
In the 17th century, clothing became more than ever a reflection of religious and political conviction.
- Reformed Sober Style: In the Netherlands, Great Britain (Puritans) and Switzerland, the elite wore almost exclusively black. The wealth was in the details: the finest white collars and the highest quality fabrics.
- The Shift to Baroque: Around the middle of the 17th century, the high, closed neckline disappeared. Fashion became 'looser' and more sensual, with dresses that exposed the shoulders.
Undergarments: The Architecture of the Baroque
The 17th-century lady carefully built up her silhouette with different layers.
- Chemise (Shift): In the second half of the century, this undergarment received a lower neckline to match the 'off-the-shoulder' overclothing.
- Corsets & Bodices: For ladies of rank, the bodice (reinforced with whalebone or horn) remained essential for the desired straight posture.
- Petticoats & Farthingales: Hoop skirts gave dresses their characteristic volume, while working women more often wore multiple woolen petticoats for warmth and shape.
The Aristocracy: Collars and Pearls
The Evolution of the Collar
- 1570-1620: The iconic Spanish pleated collar (millstone collar) was at its height.
- After 1620: The collar became flatter and more modest, often made of precious lace, fitting the new fashion.
Jewelry & Status
Pearls remained the ultimate status symbol. With the lower necklines of Baroque dresses, the neck became the central point for gleaming pearl necklaces and extravagant pendant chains of gold and silver. In England, earrings remained an absolute trend for both ladies and gentlemen from the highest circles.
Working Women: Bodice and Skirt
For the working class, fashion in the 17th century definitively shifted from the full dress to the combination of bodice and loose skirt.
- The Kirtle: A close-fitting upper garment, often with short sleeves, worn over the chemise.
- Dress Hooks: An essential accessory on the belt. With these, women could hook up their skirt during work to save the fabric and have more freedom of movement.
- The Little Ice Age: Because of the cold winters, working women in Northern Europe often wore extra thick overdresses or coat dresses of rough wool, as we see in the masterworks of Pieter Bruegel.
Hair & Head Coverings: Moving Toward Freedom
At the end of the 16th century, richly decorated hairnets were still the norm for the nobility. However, during the 17th century, full head coverings largely went out of fashion among the elite.
- Caps: Simple white caps and hairnets remained the standard for Reformed women and the working class.
- The Cap: Particularly the pleated caps (such as the famous 'Amsterdam' cap) became a recognizable part of burgher dress.
Shoes: The Introduction of the Heel
A major change in the 17th century was the arrival of the heel.
- Broad-toed Shoes: These gave way to more elegant forms.
- High Heels: Although women wore them, truly high heels remained until late in the 17th century mainly a symbol of male status and power.
- Patterns: Wooden overshoes remained necessary to protect expensive leather shoes from the dirt on the street.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why did the wealthy bourgeoisie wear so much black in the Golden Age?
Black was the most difficult and expensive color to dye. By wearing black, merchants showed that they could afford the best dyes, while simultaneously complying with the religious norm of modesty.
What is the function of a dress hook?
It was a purely practical instrument. Working women used the hooks to keep their long skirts out of the mud or to create more leg room during physical work.
