Men's Fashion in the Late Middle Ages (1300-1420)

September 25, 2026

The 14th century was an era of extremes: the Hundred Years' War, the flourishing of chivalry, and the tragic impact of the Black Death. This period marks a turning point in fashion history. Where clothing was previously loose and flowing, there was now a preference for fitted cuts that emphasized the human silhouette.

In this guide, we dive deep into the wardrobe of the 14th-century gentleman, from the elite cotehardie to the practical braies of the working classes.

14th-century man in historical undergarments with hose according to late medieval fashion.

Fashion in Perspective: Status, Plague, and Legislation

In the 14th century, clothing was a direct communication tool for social status. After the Black Death, a labour shortage meant that craftspeople earned more and could suddenly afford luxuries.

Sumptuary Laws: To protect the hierarchy, kings introduced strict laws. In England and France, the division between nobility and commoners was strictly enforced. In the Low Countries and Italy, these laws were more localized; wealthy burghers often viewed fines for wearing silk or fur simply as a 'luxury tax'.
Materials: Wool and linen remained the standard. For the elite, there were exotic fabrics like brocade and silk. An affordable alternative for decoration was block printing, a technique adopted from Islamic Spain.

14th-century knight in a pourpoint with an Oakeshott type XV sword and historical equipment.

The Foundation: Undergarments

Undergarments were essential to protect precious, coloured outer clothing from body dirt. They were made of linen, which could be easily washed.

Braies: The linen undertrousers that came to the knee. To these were attached loose leg coverings (chausses).
Under-tunic: A linen garment with long sleeves. For men, this was often shorter than for women to create a layered effect under the outer clothing.

The Nobility and Wealthy Burghers: The New Silhouette

In the early 14th century, the tunic remained dominant, but gradually the fit changed drastically.

14th-century aristocrat dressed in a pourpoint with a houppelande according to late medieval fashion.

Cotehardie and Pourpoint

The cotehardie (or kirtle) was a fitted garment that emphasized the waist and shoulders with laces or buttons. The pourpoint was originally a military padded jacket (part of the harness), but was worn as a civilian fashion item to display a knightly character—comparable to wearing combat boots today.

14th-century man in a pourpoint with a historical coif from the late medieval period.

The Houppelande and Mantles

In the second half of the 14th century, the houppelande appeared: a very formal, wide outer garment often with impressive bell sleeves. Mantles were worn over the left side, leaving the right arm (the sword arm) free.

14th-century burgher dressed in a houppelande with a historical coif.

The Knight's Belt and Straps

Knights and squires wore a knight's belt: a richly decorated hip belt with heraldic motifs. Burghers wore long leather straps (2-4 cm) whose ends hung long down.

14th-century woman next to a man in Churburg-type armour, dressed in historical clothing.

Headwear and Footwear

The Bycocket and the Coif

The bycocket (the 'Robin Hood hat') was popular among all classes. The coif underwent a transformation: people began rolling it inside-out on the head like a turban, often decorated with feathers and pins.

14th-century traveller with a mantle and a bycocket according to late medieval fashion.

Poulaines (Pointed Shoes)

Shoes became increasingly pointed as a symbol of masculinity. These poulaines were protected against street dirt by wooden patterns.

Historical poulaines and patterns from the late medieval period as medieval footwear.

5. Peasants, Burghers and Servants

Medieval peasant dressed in a simple tunic with a coif.

Tunics and Mi-parti

The working man's tunic came to just above the knee for freedom of movement. A striking trend was the mi-parti style: clothing that was divided vertically in two colours, often the heraldic colours of their lord.

Practical Accessories

Peasants wore coifs to keep hair and sweat out of their faces. For travel and fieldwork, felt hats or straw hats were essential.

Late medieval peasant with a simple historical coif and practical clothing.

Jewellery and Pilgrim Badges

Jewellery was often religious (crusader pendants) or functional (seal rings). A unique 14th-century phenomenon were pilgrim badges. These tin pins were souvenirs from holy sites, but there also existed satirical badges (such as a 'pig with bagpipes') that were worn during carnival.