Quick Facts: High Medieval Women's Clothing
- Main Period: 1066 – 1300 (High Middle Ages)
- Primary Materials: Wool (outerwear), Linen (underwear), Silk/Brocade (elite)
- Core Pieces: Chemise, Bliaut, Surcotte, Gardecorp, Turn shoes
- Status Symbols: Sleeve length, colour intensity (dyes), silk embroidery and headgear
Introduction + Definition
The High Medieval women's fashion is the clothing worn in Western Europe between the Norman Conquest (1066) and the beginning of the 14th century. This fashion is characterised by strict layering, where clothing served not only for protection but primarily as an indicator of social status and religious virtue. While the basic forms (underwear and outerwear) were comparable across all classes, differences manifested themselves in the quality of fabrics, the complexity of the cut and the extravagance of the accessories.
Historical Context & Development
Between 1066 and 1300, the silhouette shifted from loose, unformed garments to more fitted clothing. In the 11th century, the cut was still relatively simple and wide. The 12th century introduced French influence with the bliaut, where lacing on the sides created an accentuated waist. By the 13th century, fashion became more streamlined and the first "sumptuary laws" emerged, attempting to reserve the use of luxury fabrics such as silk and fur for the nobility.
Technological influences from the Islamic world, spread via Spain and the Crusades, introduced new patterns such as block-printed fabrics, which offered a cheaper alternative to costly embroidery.
Construction: The Essential Undergarment
Underwear formed the hygienic and structural foundation of every outfit.
- The Chemise (undergarment): A long linen garment with sleeves worn directly against the skin. It protected expensive woollen outerwear from body fat and sweat.
- Women's Braies: Although there is historical debate, archaeological finds (such as at Lengberg Castle) and texts point to the existence of linen underwear for women, often worn for practical and chastity considerations.
- Stockings: Woollen socks that came up to the knee and were held in place with garters.
Noble Fashion: Extravagance and Status
For the elite, clothing was a visual display of power.
- The Bliaut: A show-off piece from the 12th century with extremely long "trumpet sleeves". These impractical sleeves showed that the wearer did not need to perform physical labour.
- The Surcotte (Cyclas): A sleeveless overdress worn over the dress. In the 13th century, the sides of this were closed, leading to a more architectural silhouette.
- Headgear: Married women wore veils and the barbette (a linen chin band). Unmarried women were allowed to wear their hair loose or braided, which symbolised virginity.
- Accessories: Leather belts became longer and more richly decorated in the 13th century. Shoes were of the 'turn shoe' type, often protected by wooden pattens to avoid mud.
Fashion of Peasants, Burgesses and Servants
The working classes wore clothing made of robust wool and linen in natural shades such as grey, brown and woad blue.
- Functionality: For working women, the surcoat often served as an apron or pouch during harvest.
- Footwear: In addition to leather turn shoes, wooden clogs became popular from the 12th century onwards as a cheap and safe 'safety shoe' for fieldwork.
- Mi-parti: Servants of noble courts often wore clothing in the colours of their lord (vertically divided), which symbolised their loyalty and rank within the household.
- Protection: The caproen (a hood with shoulder piece) and the gardecorp (travel cloak) were essential for protection against the elements.
Jewellery and Symbolism
Jewellery in the High Middle Ages often had an apotropaic (protective) or religious function.
- Brooches and Fibulae: The most common pieces of jewellery, used to fasten cloaks and necklines.
- Pendant Chains: Often religious in nature (crosses or saint images), which in Western Europe were often worn under clothing as personal amulets.
- Rings: Popular among all classes; from the 13th century onwards, the wedding ring officially became part of the church wedding ceremony.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why did medieval women always wear a veil?
From Christian chastity ideals, married women were expected to cover their hair. Additionally, the complexity of the veil and the associated pins served as a direct status symbol for noble ladies.
What fabrics were most commonly used in the 12th century?
Wool was the standard for outerwear because of its insulation and durability. Linen was used exclusively for underwear and headgear because it was washable and cooling. The elite also used silk and brocade.
What is a bliaut?
The bliaut is an iconic garment from the 12th century, recognisable by its very wide trumpet sleeves and lacing on the sides to create a fitted silhouette.
Summary
- Fashion was determined by a combination of gender, social status and religious regulations.
- Linen underwear was essential for hygiene and the preservation of expensive outerwear.
- The 12th century marks a peak in elegant, fitted fashion such as the bliaut.
- Practical adaptations, such as clogs and aprons (surcoats), typified the working classes.
- Jewellery and cloaks served as the primary indicators of wealth and noble rank.
